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2015 was a moment in history that changed Japanese whiskey forever. This was the year that the reputable whiskey critic Jim Murray named in his Whiskey Bible a Japanese whiskey – Yamazaki Single Malt Sherry Cask 2013 – to be the world’s best, with no Scotch whiskies making it to the top five. Japanese whiskies had been slowly creeping up the ladder for years. But it was this defining moment that truly altered its international reception.

Whiskey, after all, is not the first thing that often comes to mind when we talk about Japanese alcoholic drinks. Izakaya scenes are often filled with images of foam-lined beer mugs, and for good reason – Japan’s finest brews (Asahi, Kirin, Sapporo, and the like) are popular nationally and worldwide.

At Japan Nakama, we’re big fans of Japan’s national beverage, sake, and have covered it on various occasions (See here, here, and here). Now, we thought, is as good a time as any to take a closer look into their friends in the industry – Japanese whiskies.
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So, what actually is Japanese whiskey?

Yoichi Taketsuru Japanese whiskies

Japanese whiskey is relatively young – it only arrived in Japan in the late 1800s when the American Commodore Matthew Perry arrived in Japan for the second time to make sure the country would remain open to the rest of the world after decades of isolation.

On his second visit, Perry brought gallons of bourbon with him as a gift for the emperor. But he didn’t have a clue who the real ruler of Japan was in terms of the distinction between the figure head emperor and the shogun who made all the decisions. The bourbon ended up in the hands of samurai who served the shogun and they loved it. 

In fact, one story reports that the drunken warriors threw their arms around Perry and shouted “Nippon and America, all the same heart!”

But it wasn’t bourbon that caught on in Japan. It was scotch and that wouldn’t happen overnight. It would be a long process of trial and error between two men – Masataka Taketsuru, the founder of Nikka and Shinjiro Torii, the founder of Suntory.

Before I get into the story of these whiskey titans, there’s another man who gets overlooked in the history of Japanese whiskey. His name is Jokichi Takamine, a chemist who studied in Scotland before Taketsuru and went to America to make whiskey.

Takamine’s claim to fame is that he figured out how to apply koji-kin, the special mould used to make sake and shochu, to wheat bran in whiskey making. His innovation cut down the eight day wheat bran malting process to two days. Takamine’s technique was praised for how cost-effective it was. 

Unfortunately, local maltsters didn’t appreciate their livelihoods being under threat and they started protests in 1891. Eventually, a fire broke out in the distillery where Takamine’s equipment was stored and everything was destroyed. While Takamine rebuilt his equipment, his koji-kin malting didn’t catch on. He might have been consigned to history if not for recent efforts to restore his good name.

In 2021, Takamine Whiskey was created as a way to revive the koji-kin whiskey making process. This whiskey is double distilled and aged for eight years in virgin oak and ex-bourbon casks.

Let’s return to the stories of Masataka Taketsuru and Shinjiro Torii. Both men had different approaches to making whiskey and both deserve credit for pushing the industry forward.

Taketsuru is often considered the father of Japanese whiskey because he went to Scotland to study Scottish whiskey. But instead of going to America like Takamine, he went back to Japan. On returning, Taketsuru was hired by Torii. 

The founder of Suntory wanted to make a whiskey that appealed to Japanese tastebuds and that led to the creation of the first Japanese whiskey called White Label in 1923. Unfortunately, it was too Scotch-like for Japanese consumers and didn’t sell well. This failure caused a rift between Taketsuru and Torii.

After 11 years at Suntory, Taketsuru left to build his own distillery in Hokkaido, where the region and climate reminded him of Scotland. This would turn out to be the birthplace of Yoichi Distillery, owned by Nikka. 

As you can imagine, an intense rivalry ignited between Nikka and Suntory. Both companies strived to prove they were the best in different ways. Taketsuru was the consummate craftsman, fine-tuning every piece of the Nikka whiskey-making process. Torii was ever the business man, pumping as much money into marketing as he did his products, which caused an international buzz for Suntory. According to a report from 1976, Suntory produced 255 million bottles of whiskey that year and shipped them out to 68 countries. 

By the 1990s, interest in Japanese whiskey had waned. This was because of changing tastes, as consumers were more interested in white spirits like vodka. And then in 2001, a ten-year-old Nikka whiskey from the Yoichi distillery broke records in a prestigious whiskey magazine, reigniting the category’s popularity. 

Today, Suntory and Nikka are the two giants dominating the Japanese whiskey industry, with Suntory owning the brands Yamazaki, Hakushu, and Chita, while Nikka owns Yoichi and Miyagikyo.

What is special about Japanese Whiskey?

Japanese river in Kyoto

Japanese whiskey is special in different ways. The most distinct part of it is that Japanese whiskey blending is typically performed in-house. In Scotland, whiskey blends are typically made by combining whiskies that are produced from distilleries across the country. In Japan, however, the nature of the industry is such that whiskey companies tend to own the distilleries and the brands without mixing with competitors.

This means that a blended whiskey such as Hibiki will be made from malt whiskies from Yamazaki, Hakushu, and grain whiskey from Chita, all of which are owned by Suntory. Because of this, producers can use all sorts of pot stills for distilling the spirit, and casks of different sizes and woods (such as Japanese mizunara oak or sherry casks) to create a plethora of flavours.

Another special aspect of Japanese whiskey is the superb quality of water that is used to make it. In fact, the first Yamazaki distillery was opened in Osaka Prefecture because of its proximity to the many rivers near the region, where several centuries ago a tea master had chosen to build a tea room nearby for its access to the pristine water. To see what is actually special about Japanese whiskey in action, we’ve included one of our favourite scenes from the movie Lost in Translation, featuring Bill Murray.

YouTube video

How do you drink Japanese Whiskey?

There really is no correct way to drink Japanese whiskey. In Japan, whiskey highball is popular, in which two parts soda water is added to whiskey. For higher-end whiskies, however, it is common to have it neat or on the rocks.

Enhancing the Experience with Whiskey Glasses

To get the most out of your first few sips of whiskey, it’s essential that you use the right glassware. Whiskey can be enjoyed in a variety of glasses, and unlike wine, you don’t have to use different glasses for different types of whiskey. Whether it’s a Yamazaki Single Malt, a traditional Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt, or a Toki Blended, having a glass that you love is part of the experience.

Remember to always respect the art of whiskey making. Whiskey glasses come in all shapes and sizes. Old Fashioned whiskey glasses have straight edges, whereas the Kori Whiskey glass has a lotus-like look. 

Wide and thick bases distinguish the top whiskey glasses. This is good for a number of reasons. First, if you like your whiskey on the rocks, the thick bottom will keep it colder for longer and prevent the ice from melting too rapidly. The same is true if you like whiskey stones, since glass is a poor heat conductor, allowing the whiskey to remain colder for longer. A large hole also makes it simple to fill with ice.

Drinking from a whiskey glass is a way to show your appreciation for the skill of the maker, as well as a way to appreciate their craft. If you want to get the most out of a whiskey, you need to be able to smell it and appreciate the aromas that come from it. You also should inhale the whiskey’s aroma before taking a sip.

The Asama Japanese Whiskey Glass glass is geographically mapped to Mount Asama in Japan, the birthplace of the famous Karuizawa Distillery, and arguably one of the rarest whiskies in the world.

  • Capacity: 200ml
  • Material: Heat Resistant Glass
  • Height: 73mm, Diameter: 70mm
Japanese Whiskey Glass Asama with Sakura design
Kori Whiskey Bonsai Whiskey Glass

This Bonsai tree root inspired whiskey glass is a work of art. Harmony, balance, and patience are all synonymous with bonsai plants. Zen Buddhists believe that bonsai trees can be used as a means of contemplation and meditation.

  • Capacity: 260ml
  • Material: Heat Resistant Glass
  • Size: 5.5x10x7.5 (cm)

The Fuji Whiskey Glass is designed to look like the mouth of Mt. Fuji in Japan. Mt. Fuji’s majestic beauty creates an indelible imprint on the observer, wrapping one in a state of bliss.

  • Capacity: 220ml
  • Material: Heat Resistant Glass
  • Height: 85mm, Diameter: 55mm
Mount Fuji Whiskey Glass
Hisame Whiskey Glass

The Hisame Japanese whiskey glass is designed to resemble the ice storms (Hisame “Ice Rain” in Japanese) of Northern Japan.

  • Capacity: 260ml
  • Material: Heat Resistant Glass
  • Height: 70mm, Diameter: 94mm

The Iwa Whiskey glass is inspired by the rocky landscape of Japan’s unique geography. In Japanese, Iwa means “rock.”

  • Capacity: 255ml
  • Material: Crystal Glass
  • Height: 75mm, Diameter: 90mm
Iwa Japanese Whiskey Glass

How to get started with Japanese Whiskey?

Japanese whiskey is infamous for being expensive, especially due to increasing interest and limited demand. In 2018, a 50-year-old Yamazaki first edition was sold for $343,000 at an auction in Hong Kong!

So how do you get started? For this purpose, we’ve compiled a shortlist of 3 affordable (relatively, given the usual price range), accessible Japanese whiskies for those who are keen to try.

An absolute classic, the Yamazaki 12 Year Single Malt is the most expensive in this list, and was one of the first Japanese whiskies to enter the UK market.

Flavour profile from The Whisky Exchange: cinnamon, orange, pineapple, honey

Japanese whisky Yamazaki 12-year single malt

Hibiki contains a blend of malt and grain whiskies from Yamazaki, Hakushu, and Chita.

Flavour profile from The Whisky Exchange: black pepper, cinnamon, orange, apricot, oak

Japanese whisky Hibiki Japanese Harmony

The Nikka Taketsuru Pure Malt is a non-age-statement blend containing a high percentage from the Miyagikyo distillery and the rest from Yoichi. This has been aged for 10 years including in sherry casks.

Flavour profile from The Whisky Exchange: clove, pear, cherry, smoke, butterscotch, plums

Japanese whisky Nikka Taketsuru pure malt

Finally, we’ve included a video from Suntory introducing their Yamazaki Distillery:

YouTube video

Although the distillery is currently closed for visits, a tour can still be seen here:

YouTube video