Historically speaking, few things were as influential in shaping the people’s image of their own country as pilgrimage trails. Guided by religious causes, these journeys were the first time many citizens, both poor and wealthy, got to know the extent of the land they called home. Japan, unsurprisingly, was no exception. Japanese pilgrimages, and their subsequent secularization, were instrumental in shaping the nation into the one we know today. Japanese hot springs (Onsen), for example, owe their success to the Buddhist pilgrims of ancient times. The developments themselves took centuries to be properly established, and we couldn’t in good faith attribute it to a single trail; however, if we had to choose one, our pick would undoubtedly be the Kumano Kodo Trail. The most important Japanese pilgrimage.
Today, as part of a collaboration with Jetpac eSIM, we want to tell you everything about this fascinating and life-changing experience. Let us be direct: we want you to take the Kumano Kodo Trail. We believe the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage is the thing your adventurous mind never knew it needed to do. So take the following article for what it is—not merely a Kumano Kodo guide, but a letter from Japanese culture lovers. An invitation to see things as we do, all through a fascinating journey full of spiritual significance and natural beauty. If you want to embark on this quest, keep reading.
What is the Kumano Kodo?
Image credit: Oku Japan
If you’re reading this, it means you’re willing to take the first steps into this enthralling adventure, so, what are you signing up for? What is the Kumano Kodo Trail? To put it simply, the Kumano Kodo is a 1000-year-old Shintoist pilgrimage across the mountainous Kii peninsula. Unlike other famous pilgrimages, it doesn’t have an established “destination”; rather, the journey will take you to a connected network of three Grand Shrines. These are the Hongu, Shingu and Nachi Shrines, collectively known as the Kumano Sanzan. The Kumano Kodo pilgrimage can start as soon as one arrives at either Kyoto or Osaka, but the historically most famous route begins at Tanabe City.
This is all useful information you’ll need to know, however, it’s not why you’re here. Why does the Kumano Kodo stand out? How has it remained relevant for over a thousand years? The answer to both of these questions is its spiritual significance. As early as the Heian Era, emperors of the then capital, Kyoto, found themselves drawn by the spiritual ambience of the Kumano Kodo, travelling to write poetry, perform ritual dances and bathe in the purifying rivers. One such emperor, Fujiwara, travelled during a particular tumultuous period for Japan, and did so to ask the Kamis for peace. As history became myth and myth became legend, Japanese pilgrims sought to follow Fujiwara’s footsteps.
Eventually, the Kumano Kodo became famous across Japan, and seekers of truth, either religious or not, took the trail. Time, in fact, only made it more relevant. UNESCO, for example, recognized it as a World Heritage Site in 2004, a feat it shares with only one other pilgrimage trail (The St James Way).
So, now that you know what the Kumano Kodo is, how do you start?
The Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Routes
Image credit: Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau
As previously stated, the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage doesn’t have a clear destination. As such, it doesn’t have a clear beginning either. There exist six different routes that are considered part of Kumano Kodo, all of which vary in scenery, length and difficulty. Choosing a route is, therefore, the most important decision when embarking on this journey.
As you might have guessed, finding the perfect route is a personal decision. Are you more of an avid hiker or a curious historian? Are you guided by the promise of natural beauty or religious significance? In either case, our goal here is not to suggest, but to encourage that adventurous part of you. Whatever route best suits your preference, you will find it in the following segments. For the sake of convenience, we’ll include the estimated lengths in Kilometres and time durations.
Nakahechi Route
The Nakahechi route, also known as the Imperial Route, is the most famous and important route of the Kumano Kodo. Beginning at Tanabe City, the Nakahechi route was built over 1000 years ago to provide direct passage to Kumano Sanzan. Therefore, the Nakahechi is the most accessible and versatile route of the Kumano Kodo. As a matter of fact, many of the other routes end up connecting to it.
As the name “Imperial Route” suggests, this was the route the emperors took when embarking on their pilgrimages. For this reason, Nakahechi has a unique historical and cultural atmosphere, one that will, on occasions, transport you to the Heian Era. This being said, the route is somewhat touristic, with English signs, maps and luggage shuttle services across the way. These features aim to make the Nakahechi route more comfortable, and I would argue they do so without sacrificing immersion, but that’s up to you to decide.
The route itself would be best defined as moderately difficult. It’s by no means the easiest route, with a mountainous environment that will test your abilities and endurance; but it has enough villages, one could easily find places to rest. In any case, it’s best to go prepared.
🏃 70 Kilometres
🕗 4–5 days (some itineraries go up to 7 days)
Iseji Route
Image credit: Japan RailPass
Substantially longer than the Nakahechi Route, the Iseji Route is a gateway to ancient Japanese religious practices. The distinctive feature of this route is it begins at the Ise Grand Shrine, located at Ise in the Mie Prefecture. This shrine, dedicated to the solar goddess Amaterasu, is considered the most important shrine in Shintoism. Consequently, the Iseji route holds the biggest spiritual significance out of all the Kumano Kodo trails in Shintō, as it connects two religiously important places of this faith.
Besides this, the main draw of the Iseji Route is its natural beauty. The route traverses the east coast of the Kii peninsula, which means breathtaking scenery of rivers, beaches and mountains. For this reason, Iseji is often called the most beautiful way to get to Kumano Sanzan.
In terms of difficulty, the Iseji Route could be considered comparable with the Nakahechi Route, as the terrain is quite similar. However, the Iseji route is almost twice as long, meaning it will test your endurance in a more arduous way. Expect a journey across varied terrain, with both high and low moments of intensity, that will ultimately reward your perseverance.
🏃 170 Kilometres
🕗 10-14 days
Ohechi Route
Perhaps the most romantic route of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage, the Ohechi Route thrives in its immersive capabilities. Developed in the 15th century as an alternative to the Nakahechi Route, Ohechi begins at Tanabe City and traverses the southwest coast of the Kii peninsula. The coastal scenery was especially important to its development, as Japanese poets and writers of the Edo Period were attracted by it. Matsuo Bashō, for example, wrote many of his legendary haikus with the Ohechi Route in mind.
As for the immersion part, the Ohechi Route is favoured among many Japanese citizens, as it’s arguably the least touristic. The journey across the southwest coast is full of small villages that feel like a journey into the past, aided by the fact the signage along the way has some segments where English is nowhere to be found. Don’t worry though, as if you travel with our partner Jetpac eSIM, you’ll have fantastic travel data that ensures you won’t get lost.
Finally, the Ohechi Route could be considered the least difficult route of Kumano Kodo. This is due to modern developments, as some sections have been transformed into paved roads, making them substantially easy to traverse. Keep in mind that, when we say this is the least difficult, we are saying it relative to the other routes, as this is still a days-long trek you’ll need to be prepared for.
🏃 65 Kilometres
🕗 3 to 4 days
Kohechi Route
Image credit: Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau
The Kohechi Route, also known as the mountain trail, aims to bring spirituality to a more grounded level. Similarly to the Iseji Route, it connects another religiously important place to the Kumano Sanzan, beginning at Mount Kōya (Kōyasan). However, if you’re familiar with Kōyasan, you’ve already realized the particularity of this route, as it is a Buddhist worship place. The Kohechi Route, therefore, connects two different faiths’ sacred sites, finding common ground in their pursuit of spiritual truths.
Furthermore, the route’s existence serves as a reminder of Japanese history. Back when it was developed, around the 13th and 14th centuries, Buddhism and Shintoism weren’t that far apart. Of course, they were puritans for both, but Shinto-Budist teachings were practiced across the nation. It wasn’t until the opening of Japanese borders that a decree aimed at separating the two was put in place. So, in many ways, the Kohechi Route is a way to return to that past—a moment in Japanese history where religious practices weren’t as much dictated by doctrine, as they were to heal one’s soul.
If the name “mountain trail” is any hint, this is one of the most difficult routes in the Kumano Kodo trail. The journey includes multiple passes over 1,000 meters in elevation, so your endurance will constantly be tested. Additionally, the weather can be quite a hassle, with rain, wind and fog being all possible outcomes. From mid-December to mid-March, the route is straight down closed due to the possibility of snow. This being said, the Kohechi Route does have some of the best hot spring villas, like the Totsukawa Onsen, so it has some of the most relaxing moments too.
🏃 65 Kilometres
🕗 4 to 5 days
Omine Okugakemichi
Image credit: Sacred Natural Sites Japan
Representing a 1300-year-old tradition, the Omine Okugakemichi stands out in the Kumano Kodo trail as a true test of one’s capabilities. The route begins at Yoshino Kumano National Park, specifically at the town of Yoshino, and crosses the Ōmine Mountains to Kumano Sanzan. These mountains, which include both Mount Yoshino and Mount Ōmine, hold spiritual significance in the indigenous practice of Shugendō, a tradition of pre-feudal Japan. Unlike previously mentioned routes, Shugendō practitioners don’t just use these mountains as places of worship. For them, these are testing grounds for devotees. So, this isn’t just a pilgrimage trail, it’s a mental, physical and spiritual trial.
Here, we must address one of the most controversial aspects about the Omine Okugakemichi, and that is the gender restrictions in place. For religious reasons, women are not allowed to get to the top of Mount Ōmine, a tradition Shugendō practitioners proudly uphold. This is, however, not a legally enforced restriction, and many Japanese women over the years have climbed Mount Ōmine in protest without consequence. This being said, women can still be criticized for not being “respectful” of the traditions, which is why some deviations exist. As a side note, there exists a woman only mountain, Mount Inamura, where men are forbidden from entering or practicing Shugendo.
In terms of difficulty, the Omine Okugakemichi is widely considered one of, if not the most, difficult pilgrimages in Japan. Across this journey you’ll encounter rocky terrain, steep climbs and constant elevation changes, making it quite fitting for its status as a mental and physical test. Arduous preparation and several days of food and water are required.
🏃 100 Kilometres
🕗 5 to 7 days
Kiiji route
Image credit: Wiki Data
The precursor to the Nakahechi Route, the Kiiji Route follows the emperor’s of old as they travelled from Osaka to Tanabe City. Due to its unique location, this is the easiest way to start the Kumano Kodo trail, as Osaka is well-connected with all of Japan. For this very reason, most people hike sections of the Kiiji Route rather than the whole trail. This could be done as both preparation for the Kumano Kodo trail, or a quick hiking escape from Osaka.
Considering there exists direct transportation from Osaka to Tanabe, it’s normal to ask, are there any benefits from taking the Kiiji Route? As a matter of fact, there are some noteworthy locations you could only access by taking this approach. The Fujishiro Shrine, for example, can be found in the first segment of the Kiiji route, also known as the “wakayama road of purification.” Another noteworthy site is Kumano Hongū Taisha, the “first torii gate of Kumano,” which officially lets you know the Kumano Kodo has begun.
In terms of difficulty, the Kiiji Route follows both old pilgrimage roads and modern paved ones. The older segments provide a challenge and the modern ones an easier terrain to traverse. This is to say, the Kiiji Route is comparable to the Ohechi Route in terms of difficulty, although it’s almost twice as long. This being said, it also features twice as many places to rest, as it traverses some populated areas. In short, expect a moderate hike.
🏃 Approximately 150 Kilometres
🕗 6 to 7 days (to get to Tanabe)
Kumano Kodo Accommodations
Image credit: Kumano Travel
Considering that, depending on the route, the Kumano Kodo trail can take up to two weeks to finish, it’s common to feel anxious about the question: where would I sleep? This question has haunted even the emperor of ancient Japan, as, at the end of the day, we all have human necessities. However, as hinted at the beginning of this article, the rise of religious pilgrimage also led to the rise of accommodations in Japan. The Kumano Kodo, being the most important pilgrimage trail, was among the first to generate these new businesses around it, especially in hot springs villas.
This is to say, you’ll have a varied amount of options for accommodation during the Kumano Kodo trail. These include western style Hotels, Ryokan Inns, Guesthouses and even rental homes. We won’t go over any specific examples, as there are more than 13 different areas where accommodations can be found, and covering them deserves its own article. For now, we recommend you visit the Kumano Travel Site, as it has a compiled segment on accommodation based on route.
Finally, we must mention once again our partner Jetpac eSIM, as the possibility of having travel data while looking for accommodation is invaluable. With their reliable services, you’ll be free to explore the Kumano Kodo trail without what if scenarios holding you back.
Kumano Sanzan
By this point, it should be obvious that the Kumano Kodo Trail is all about the journey, not the destination. Nevertheless, there are some absolutely breathtaking sites awaiting the adventurous souls that took the pilgrimage. We are, of course, referring to the three grand shrines that compose Kumano Sanzan.
Before we dive into the shrines, we must address a question that’s been underlying this entire article: why Kumano? Why not, let’s say, Kyoto, widely considered the spiritual capital of the nation? Although it’s tempting to say Kumano stands out because three Grand Shrines were built there; the reality is the other way around. Ever since prehistoric times, the Kumano region has been considered spiritually special. Its mountainous terrain has always awakened a sense of awe and wonder in people. As a matter of fact, in Shintoism it’s associated with the Yomi-no-Kuni, land of the dead; in Japanese Buddhism, it’s the celestial realm. Kumano was, in short, a place above this earth, where one could heal their soul, and, because of the hot springs, their body too.
So, without further ado, let’s dive into the three grand shrines that embody the essence of this sacred region.
Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine
Image credit: Japan Travel
Mainly dedicated to the Kumano Gongen, a deity believed to be a manifestation of Buddha incarnated as a Kami, the Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine captures the confluent spirituality of the Kumano region. Originally, it was built in Ōyunohara, a sandbank where the Kumano and Otonashi Rivers meet. However, after a flood in 1889 destroyed much of the structure, the salvaged remains were rebuilt at the present site. This ended up being beneficial, as the Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine is now located in a much safer place; not to mention, now all the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage routes lead to it.
As for its original site, Ōyunohara, a Torii shrine gate was erected in the year 2000 to serve as a gateway to the sacred Kumano area. In fact, this gate, officially titled Otorii, is the largest Torii shrine gate in the world, coming to an astonishing 33.9 meters tall and 42 meters wide.
As for the architecture of the Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine, ever since ancient times it has been composed of five main pavilions, as well as a stage to perform theatre, dance and other rituals. Over the years, many of these were destroyed and faithfully rebuilt, at least until the previously mentioned flood of 1889, the last major reconstruction of the shrine. The buildings themselves were made using natural unfinished material of the area, which lets the shrine blend with the environment. The particular stand out, architecturally speaking, can be found in the roofs. These are entirely made of Hinoki, Japanese cypress bark, and are decorated with bronze ornaments in a style called Chigi, common on many Japanese shrines.
Festivals
Image credit: Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau
There exist two festivals that are celebrated around the Kumano Hongu Taisha Shrine: the Kumano Hongu Taisha Spring Festival, and the Yata-no-Hi Matsuri Fire Festival. Additionally, it should be noted that Otorii is lit up during these events, to commemorate their spiritual importance.
The first one, the Spring Festival, is held between the 13th and 15th of April, and is intimately associated with the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. The first day, fathers and sons wearing traditional costumes go to purify themselves in the waters of Yunomine Onsen, right before walking the Kumano Kodo route to Ōyunohara. It’s quite a sight to behold, as the young boys are not allowed to touch the ground, meaning their fathers carry them over their shoulders the entire time. The last day, Kumano deities are invoked to take temporary residence in a portable shrine (mikoshi), before being transported to Ōyunohara. Once there, various rituals and celebrations take place, such as fire rituals and mochi rice cake scramble.
The Yata-no-Hi Matsuri Fire Festival, on the other hand, is celebrated the last Saturday of august, once again in Ōyunohara. This festival is dedicated to the Yatagarasu crow, the main deity of Kumano. Yatagarasu, a three-legged crow, is closely related to the pilgrim history of the region, as it is said to guide travellers in their spiritual journeys. As for the festival, it includes fire mikoshi, a Taiko drum show, dancing, and fireworks, with the Otorii as a backdrop.
Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine
Image credit: Good Luck Trip
The Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine is a place that, quite literally, blends its unique location with its purpose as a place to worship. By this, we don’t just mean the spiritual significance of the greater Kumano area, but rather the fact this shrine is considered a place to worship nature. It is located at the mouth of the Kumano-gawa River, next to the Pacific Ocean, surrounded by trees of the mountainous Kii peninsula. Additionally, it stands tall next to an 800-year-old Nagi-no-Ki tree, to symbolize it as old as the nature that surrounds it. The Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine is, in short, one with nature, and praying there is, by extension, appraising nature’s beauty.
Festivals
Image credit: The Mainichi
Similarly to the previously mentioned shrine, the Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine has two festivals around it, both of which hold special spiritual significance.
The first one is the Mifune Matsuri, which is not to be confused with the festival of the same name celebrated in Kyoto. Whereas the Kyoto festival is an elegant boat spectacle commemorating emperors of old, the Kumano festival is a fierce boat race. Celebrated on October 16th, nine boats of men compete to be the first to traverse the Kumano-gawa River to the Mifune-jima Island. Here, once again, a portable shrine is used, which transports a Deity to the Mifune-jima Island, thought to be a sacred place of rest. Over the years, the popularity of this festival has grown, with the Japanese government recognizing it as an intangible cultural asset in 2016.
The second festival is the Oto Matsuri, which, in opposition to Mifune Matsuri, is themed around fire. Held on February 6th, this festival sees men of all ages dressed in white to symbolize purity. Furthermore, participants, called noboriko, only eat white foods during this day. Once the daylight starts to fade, the noboriko are instructed to carry a torch lit from a sacred fire. As the torch burns and the sensation of fire becomes palpable, the shrine gates open up and participants race down the mountain. The result? A fiery path resembling a dragon emerges, the sky changes colour and the smoke blends with each participant’s best wishes, taking them beyond this world.
Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine
Image credit: Pen_ash, via Unsplash
The last of the grand shrines, and most likely the second one you’ll visit (independently of the route you choose), the Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine is perhaps the most beautiful of the three. Located 350 meters above sea level, this shrine rests next to, and was built to worship, the legendary waterfall Nachi-no-Otaki. The striking colours of the structure next to the waterfall already makes for one breathtaking sight; but add to this the trees that surround the mountainous environment, and the Shrine stands out as something straight out of paradise.
Regarding the Nachi-no-Otaki, this is the tallest waterfall in Japan, standing at an impressive 133 meters. It’s so tall, in fact, that it can be seen from far out on the Pacific Ocean. Much like the Kumano area itself, this waterfall was considered a sacred site before Shintoism was properly established as a religion. As an example, Shugendo practitioners, which we’ve discussed in the Omine Okugakemichi route, revered the place for its spiritual importance.
Festivals
Image credit: Oh! Matsuri
Unlike the previously mentioned shrines, there is only one festival celebrated around the Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine: the Nachi-no-Hi Matsuri Fire Festival. Held annually on July 14th, this festival may feel quite similar to the Oto Matsuri, in that it’s a fire festival where men carry torches and dress in white. However, this is as far as similarities go. The torches, for one, are almost four times as big as the one in Oto Matsuri, requiring much more endurance and strength to carry. As you might imagine, these torches were not designed with running in mind. Their purpose is to burn, and thus, purify, a 6-meter tall portable shrine that represents the waterfall. Ensuring the sacred waters remain pure.
The Dual Pilgrim
Finally, to conclude this article, we want to share a fact most people aren’t aware of regarding the Kumano Kodo: its relationship with The Way of St. James. It’s true a common name for the Kumano Kodo is the Japanese Camino, in reference to “El Camino de Santiago”, which is how the Way of St. James is known in Spain. However, we’re not referring to that, or even the fact they both shared a title as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. No, we’re referring to the fact that the Kumano Kodo and the Way of St. James are sister trails, and have been so ever since 2015. This began as a program to tell the stories of the adventurous soul that took both trails, in a recognition now known as a Dual Pilgrim.
Of course, there is no reward that could remotely encapsulate such a monumental achievement as completing both pilgrimages. Nevertheless, Dual Pilgrims are awarded a special pin badge, a diploma, and are featured on the spiritual pilgrim website.
Having made it this far into the article, we’re sure your dauntless spirit is ready to embark on this fantastic journey. So, as one last piece of advice, whether you’re ready to take on the Kumano Kodo trail, or are looking for that Dual Pilgrim recognition, make sure to do so with Jetpac eSIM. With their fantastic travel data, you’ll have fast internet access in Japan, Spain and anywhere in the world. We’re sure you won’t miss out on this great adventure, and, as our esteemed reader, we want you to have the best experience possible.
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