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Contrary to popular belief, no genius works alone. No genius comes up with ideas in a vacuum; there’s always an influence, a friend or a place that inspires a sense of awe and wonder in their mind. David Bowie, being the genius that he was, was no exception. The groundbreaking artist from London had plenty of influences and collaborators that allowed him to go above and beyond expectations. He was, simultaneously, a genre chameleon and an envelope pusher. Always an outsider with a foot inside, he made sure music, as an art form, was headed in a direction that was interesting and worthwhile. This being said, perhaps the moment Bowie was at his peak, artistically speaking, was when his eyes were set on Japan. Across multiple genres, art forms, sounds and partners, David Bowie’s Japan was among his most inspiring muses.

Today, in honor of his legacy, we dive into the history of David Bowie in Japan. A fascinating tale expanding fashion, music, film, photography and much more.

 

David Bowie’s Connection to Japan

Before David Bowie was the artist we knew, back when he wasn’t famous and the surname “Bowie” was still floating in the air, Japan was already on his mind. While still a young adult, Bowie studied under dancer Lindsay Kemp, whose style was heavily influenced by Kabuki. Through Kemp, the makeup and gender-defying roles of Kabuki theatre captured Bowie’s mind.

Eventually, Bowie took it upon himself to turn Kemp’s teaching into his own thing, thus creating his most famous persona: Ziggy Stardust. The first appearance of this character was on the Life on Mars video, and Bowie would eventually develop him with the help of designer Kansai Yamamoto (whose influence and legacy we’ll explore in the following section).

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Once Bowie was famous and touring, Japan became one of his favourite destinations. According to The Japan Times, David Bowie was particularly fascinated by Kyoto, even considering making it his permanent home. The same article also notes that Bowie celebrated his honeymoon with Iman in the Tawaraya Ryokan, located in the city. This shows that, for Bowie, Kyoto wasn’t just one more stop while touring; it was a place he loved. And, judging by the reactions of his Japanese fans to his death, we know Kyoto loved him back.

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David Bowie and Japanese designer of Kansai Yamamoto

Continuing with what was alluded to in the previous section, let’s examine Bowie’s Japanese designer: Kansai Yamamoto. A man of many talents, Yamamoto studied Civil Engineering and English before deciding that fashion was his calling. This gave him an edge over his competitors, as his knowledge in other fields would prove to be instrumental in his approach to fashion. With his extensive background and overall love for his culture, Kansai Yamamoto created some of the most timeless pieces of clothing known to pop culture.

The obvious standouts are his creations for Bowie’s costumes on the Ziggy Stardust Tour of 1972. Kansai Yamamoto took the idea of Kabuki theater, traditional Japanese clothing and the other wordly concept of character, and created something that feels like a time capsule. A moment outside of time and space where only Ziggy Stardust could live and thrive. He’s coming to earth and would like to come and meet us. Outfits like the iconic “Space Samurai”, when worn by David Bowie performing, immediately broke conventions, gender boundaries and more. It was, to put it simply, a collaboration made in heaven.

Kansai Yamamoto’s legacy

Of course, Kansai Yamamoto’s legacy doesn’t stop with Ziggy Stardust, as he’s had a lasting impact on the world of fashion and pop culture. To name another eccentric artist he collaborated with, Yamamoto was also responsible for many outfits worn by Elton John. If you know anything about John’s flamboyant taste in clothes, this should be telling of Yamamoto’s range as an artist.

Regarding the broader world of fashion, Kansai Yamamoto was the first Japanese designer to showcase outfits on the London catwalk back in 1971. This is a feat in itself, but his true impact can be felt in the people he influenced. Kansai Yamamoto’s designs have been cited as inspiration for fashion designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Hedi Slimane, Yohji Yamamoto, among others. His background as an engineer allowed him to innovate with his use of materials such as vinyl, silk, cotton and, most notably, metallic yarn, leading the way for others to follow.

In many ways, Yamamoto was among the first designers to bring attention to a Japanese style of fashion on Japanese terms. That is, he challenged western fashion norms and presented a unique, distinctly Japanese aesthetic. To this day, his lasting legacy is a testament to the power of fashion to inspire artistic and personal expression.

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David Bowie and Ryuichi Sakamoto

Another Japanese artist David Bowie collaborated with was the world-renowned composer Ryuichi Sakamoto. Together, these two musicians starred in the art-house film Merry Christmas Mr. Lawrence, which we have dedicated an entire article to. To quickly summarize, the film is a powerful movie about identity, war, queerness, Christmas spirit and much more.

Beside this movie, we know from an interview conducted in 2018 by The Guardian, that Sakamoto always held a great respect for Bowie and his artistic vision. However, in the same interview, we are made aware that, because both of them pursued their respective artistry, they never reconnect as friends. This is especially heartbreaking considering they both lived in New York; like a friend whose proximity is always taken for granted, until he suddenly isn’t there anymore. According to Ryuichi Sakamoto, this was his “Great Regret.”

Now that both Sakamoto and Bowie have reached the end of their respective journeys, we can only hope they’ve reconnected in another life. This being said, if one thing is certain, is that their respective music will live on this earth for many years to come.

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The photography of Masayoshi Sukita

Even though most people would agree that Japanese culture was essential in Bowie’s Glam Rock Era, it wasn’t the only one influenced by it. Japanese sensibilities in a more subtle way were also part of his later career as he dived into other genres. We, as the public, know this thanks to photographer Masayoshi Sukita.

Sukita was responsible for taking some of the most famous Bowie photographs ever, including many of the Ziggy Stardust character and even the Heroes’ album cover. Being someone who believed in Bowie’s artistry, Sukita evolved alongside the London artist, capturing everything from the quiet to the loud side. As the good friends they were, Masayoshi Sukita was also present in many of Bowie’s more intimate moments with Japan. Because of him, we know so much about his relationship with Kyoto, the temples he visited, and the culture he loved to explore.

Back in 2021, an art exhibition titled Bowie×Kyoto×Sukita was held in Japan to commemorate Bowie’s love for the country. As the name suggests, these were photos taken by Sukita while on Kyoto with Bowie, with some previously unseen photographs. The pictures were an intimate, poignant and beautiful reminder of the friendship they share and their partnership as artists.

Source: Leaf Kyoto

 

Crystal Japan: Ode from Bowie to the country

After all that has been said, it would be fitting to finish off this article by taking Bowie’s input to the test. By this, we mean examining some of the songs he dedicated to the country that gave him so much.

There are many tracks fans have speculated could be about Japan, like Moss Garden and many of the tracks he composed while on Tin Machine. However, if there is one song that explicitly and openly embraces a Japanese style, it would be the ethereal Crystal Japan.

Originally titled Fuji Moto San, Crystal Japan is a wordless piece of music that was originally conceived as the closer to art-rock classic Scary Monsters (And Super Creeps). The song takes inspiration from Japanese concepts to create a spacey piece of art, with an instrumental palate that feels straight out of a Ryuichi Sakamoto album. To this day, Crystal Japan remains an enduring testament to Bowie’s fascination with Japanese culture and an ode to a country that forever changed his life.

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