To say there was a time when Anthony Bourdain wasn’t the adventurous traveler and writer we knew, feels almost unthinkable. Even in the beginning of his television career, Bourdain was daring, charismatic and always seemed willing to try new things. However, throughout his various shows, we do see the chef learning and growing as the places he visited mark him. Nowhere is this clearer than in Japan, a place Anthony Bourdain has described as: “Just like taking acid for the first time. Meaning, what do I do now? I see the whole world in a different way.”
Today, we dive into the various TV shows hosted by Anthony Bourdain to explore his relationship with Japan. From strangers to lovers, the story about Bourdain and the land of the rising sun is exciting, compelling, entertaining, and overall a fantastic guide for those eager to know Japan beyond the surface level.
A Cook’s Tour
Anthony Bourdain’s first travel-centric television show was A Cook’s Tour, where he began his world-discovery endeavor. Originally conceived as a book of the same name, the Food Network offered Bourdain to adapt his travels for a TV audience. The rest, as we now know, is history.
In this show, it’s clear Bourdain has just started, as he still is quite unknowledgeable of the places he visits. This is hinted at in the show’s intro, where Bourdain tells us he is looking for epiphanies. Or, in his own words: “I’ll try anything, I’ll risk anything, I got nothing to lose.”
Part of the charm of A Cook’s Tour is how, despite his inexperience, Bourdain can get the best out of a situation with his sense of humor and charisma. Japan, of course, is a great showcase of this quality. In the three episodes he dedicated to the country, Bourdain showed a deep interest in learning more. And it was precisely this aspect, this desire to learn, that allowed Bourdain to begin falling in love with Japan.
A Taste of Tokyo
The first episode where Japan is featured is also the first episode of the entire show, A Taste of Tokyo. As the title lets us know, Bourdain travels to the capital city of Japan in search of a taste of it. A single bite that could, with the right mindset, leave him wanting for more.
As he arrives in the city, he describes it as a place obviously Japanese, but somehow familiar to him. The city gives him a science-fiction impression, with a somewhat alien atmosphere; and yet, Tokyo has the big-city flow he is used to as a New Yorker. As his mind wanders in awe as Tokyo presents itself, Bourdain is immediately reminded of the presentation of Japanese food. The contrasting textures, colors, and portion size inevitably leads him to wanting some seafood.
Bourdain’s first stop was the famous Tsukiji Outer Market, where Japanese sushi masters used to buy their fish. Currently, the sushi market has changed locations, so the place to go for this experience is Toyosu Market. In the Tsukiji, the people inform him of the various available fish and their cultural significance, with the eel catching Bourdain’s attention as “the Viagra of the sea.”
Right after the market, Bourdain visits the sushi establishment Karaku, where he gets his first taste of Tokyo. The sushi served in Karaku is special for its traditional method, as they follow the Edomae way. This means that they prepare sushi just like it was back in the Edo Period.
As he tries sushi done by masters who trained their whole life for it, he utters the words “I’m ready to die”, because the food was simply that incredible. He then let the sushi master pour sake into his cup, with him doing the same soon after. This, as it’s later explained to him, is a display of friendship and hospitality. His first real taste of Tokyo.
As the episode reaches its halfway mark, Bourdain switches from the delicacy of sushi to the roughness of Sumo. However, as he visits Tamatsuma Sumo Stable, he learns that Sumo wrestling is a place of much delicacy as well. In classic Bourdain fashion, this is shown through food, courtesy of Chanko Edosawa Restaurant. Chanko refers to the food sumo wrestlers eat to gain weight, which often takes the form of a hotpot. As Bourdain learns in the restaurant, Chanko it’s not about gaining calories, but about balance. This balance can take the form of good food in great proportions, but also in the fun experience it offers. In Bourdain’s words “is sort of like a living dish, as the conversation persists and the subject matters changes, the character of the dish can change as well”.
Finally, once the episode reaches its end, Bourdain tells us a quality both Chanko and Sushi share: they’re exciting. And, as the first episode in a show about epiphanies, eating and experiencing something this exciting, was the perfect start.
Dining with Geishas
On the second episode of the show, Dining with Geishas, Bourdain leaves Tokyo to explore another side of Japan. After a brief explanation of his goals, Bourdain hops on a Bullet Train towards a mysterious destination. This is followed by shots of the beautiful landscape captured on the moving train, and him admiring it while enjoying a Bento Box. Eventually, he reaches his goal, and we find out he is visiting the city of Atami.
While in Atami, he stayed in the Sekiyo Ryokan Inn, where much of the episode takes place. Here, Bourdain not only slept, but was also searching for a unique culinary experience: Kaiseki. As we learn, Kaiseki is not merely a style of food, but a discipline. The food in question is completely tied to the environment and the season, making it varied, versatile and exciting.
To eat Kaiseki, one must follow some rules. First, to be completely relaxed, which is why Bourdain is asked to go to the Onsen (hot springs) before eating. Once the food is served, one must follow the proper etiquette, something to which the titular geishas aid him with. While at the dinner, Bourdain made a few mistakes, but he also quickly learned from them, coming out as a kaiseki expert by the end.
The day after, Bourdain heads to Tokyo once again, but not before eating Natto beans for breakfast at the Ryokan. As he is driving back to the capital city, he stops at a highway rest-stop for a cheap meal. The quality of the food in question ended up surprising him, as even the convenience store products were delicious.
The episode finally ends with Bourdain trying Fugu (puffer fish) in Tokyo, in a restaurant called Nikibi. The place is sadly permanently closed, but you can still follow in his footsteps at another Fugu restaurant. It’s important to emphasise Bourdain’s nervousness, as the thought of eating such a dish messes with his sleep schedule. By the end, Bourdain’s impression was that the food, even at its weakest, makes for one great anecdote.
Eating on the Edge of Nowhere
The last episode of A Cook’s Tour where Japan is featured is a special episode, which shares screentime with Cambodia. The episode is called Eating on the Edge of Nowhere, and in its Japan segments, Bourdain was looking for something unique and familiar. Fortunately for him, Shinji, his translator, had something perfect for the occasion: Soba Noodles.
Together they visit Honmura An Soba Restaurant, a place in Tokyo that takes soba noodles extremely seriously. Now going by the name Honmura-An Ogikubo, you can find the restaurant in the District of Suginami. The place immediately captivated Bourdain, as he watched with admiration how the noodles were prepared from scratch. As the chef was slicing the dough, Bourdain noted how even Italian cooks would be impressed by such technique. The noodles in question were served cold with the broth on the side, something done to teach Bourdain about its flavor. The noodles are the star of the show, the broth is merely a companion.
As the episode is finishing, Bourdain walks the streets of Tokyo following the scent of yakitori, and eventually finds it. Yakitori simply refers to skewered bird (often chicken), which is a very popular Japanese bar snack. In Bourdain’s case, he visited a Yakitori Bar, and a group of Japanese people invited him to eat with them. Touched by the hospitality of these people, Bourdain felt compelled to end the episode with the following words: “it’s the simple food and the casual dining experiences that are often the most satisfying. And surprisingly, the most memorable.”
No Reservations
No Reservations was Bourdain’s second travel center TV show, and the evolution is already very noticeable. To once again take the intro as an example, the “I’m looking for epiphanies” present in A Cook’s Tour was changed to reflect Bourdain’s new feelings on the matter. The new intro states: “I’m Anthony Bourdain. I write, I travel, I eat, and I’m hungry for more.” No Reservations’ approach is bold, and immediately invites us to travel with someone who already knows a thing or two.
Another thing to note about No Reservations is that the runtime of each episode is doubled from the previous show. This allowed Anthony Bourdain to not only experience the food of a country, but also its unique culture and history. This evidently affected his relationship with Japan, as now he wasn’t only getting a taste, but the whole thing.
The Asia Special
Like the last episode we’ve commented on, Japan was also featured in a special episode, this time alongside China. The episode, however, showed a different side of Japan to Bourdain, as it is mostly centered on Osaka.
Osaka, as opposed to Tokyo, is seen as more direct, which is why his approach to the city is quite unique. First, Bourdain lets us know of the merchant class of Japan and how they allowed Osaka to thrive alongside Tokyo. From there on, the rivalry between the cities is established and eventually examined by Bourdain.
First, we see this rivalry take place in the context of Baseball, as Bourdain goes to Gosakudon Tennoji Koenmae Sports Bar. Here, Bourdain saw a game between Osaka’s Hanshin Tigers and the Tokyo Giants, which the local team ended up winning. The atmosphere at the place surprised Bourdain, not only because the bar served sushi, but because of the fans. The fans were loud, but never disrespectful, chanting with passion for each player like their lives depended on it. Moreover, each player had its own theme chant, with Bourdain wanting to learn more to get the full fan experience.
After this, Bourdain experiences another departure from Tokyo with the concept of Kuidaore. Kuidaore is to “bankrupt oneself with food”, which heavily contrasts with the reserve nature of a place like Tokyo. He was guided by two Manzai Comedians, which is a style of comedy native to the region, full of wordplay and slapstick humor. They take him to eat a make-it-yourself Takoyaki (the Osaka way) in the now closed Pizza House Restaurant; Curry rice in the celebrated Jiyuken Restaurant, where Osakan writer Oda Sakunosuke used to write; deep fried food in the relaxing and welcoming Kushikatsu Daruma; Crab leg in the now iconic site Kani Doraku Restaurant; and finally Okonomiyaki in Fukutaro Restaurant, right next to the Kuidaore Clown, to solidify the experience.
Besides Osaka, Bourdain also took a quick detour to visit the Town of Narai, a place that’s thriving with culture. This is one of the first instances where food wasn’t the main focus, as Bourdain was there to try Takigyo, “waterfall purification.” He and, fondly enough, his producer, were showered in the waters of Mount Otake, becoming one with the tradition. How does it feel? The show asked the same question, and Bourdain answered “It’s good, I do feel purified.”
In addition to this, while in Narai he also visited the Kiso Valley, a Japanese natural treasure. The rich history of the Valley, no doubt made more exciting with the help of his tour guide, led him to eventually participate in a tradition called Obon with a local family. Obon is basically about honoring our ancestors, something done by cleaning graves and making offerings. This just comes to show how welcomed he was by now, not only in Narai, but Japan in general.
Finally, Bourdain returned to Osaka for a few final activities. The first of which is eating at Honke Hormone Dojo, a place where discarded meat cuts are served, something he did to search for new flavors. After that, he went to the Koshien Baseball Stadium, to fully experience the Hanshin Tigers mania. Finally, he ended his trip with some sushi at Koyoshi Sushi Bar. This last place is sadly close, but we would like to emphasize that he went to meet the lovely couple that used to run the place. At this point, food was obviously important, but the relationships he made because of it were more.
Tokyo (and a little of Kyoto too)
By this point, Anthony Bourdain’s reputation precedes him, as this visit to Tokyo is simultaneously familiar and exclusive. The first thing to note is that this time he is accompanied by some noteworthy friends, like world-renowned chef Masaharu Morimoto. It is precisely with the help of these friends that Bourdain learned something new about Tokyo: the magic is in the little details.
The first place he visited was with Morimoto and it is called Sarashina Horii Soba Restaurant. Here, once again, with cold noodles and broth on the side, Bourdain reaffirmed his love for this dish. Additionally, Morimoto told him he needs to practice his slurp, as is always a good indication. This comment is very revealing, as Morimoto was essentially telling him that simple gestures often convey the most meaning.
Right after this, he visited the famous mixology bar Ishinohana, located in Shibuya. Here, by recommendation of a friend, Bourdain ordered the Polar Star cocktail. At first, he was impatient, as the drink was taking too long to make. But, by the end, when the cocktail was ready, he enjoyed every second of it. In the spirit of the little details, Bourdain adds “there’s the cocktail, and then there’s the japanese interpretation of it”.
Soon after, he returned to Morimoto’s side, to learn a little bit about Kendo and to see the chef in action. Once again, the relationship between these two activities lies in the details; thanks to them, technique can become expression. In Kendo’s case, though at first it seemed like a sword fight, Bourdain quickly learned that it’s about showing respect. In the words of the kendo student that educated Bourdain: “whether you win or lose is irrelevant. It’s [about] how you hold yourself and how you’re able to deal with any situation that you’re confronted with.” In the case of Morimoto, he showed his expertise in cooking in his restaurant Morimoto XEX. For this chef, balance is the most important part, as texture, color and flavor all should be presented together.
Halfway through the episode, Bourdain decided to travel to Kyoto for a topic that’s not food related: gardening. In particular, he visited Rokkakudo Temple, birthplace of Ikebana, that is, Japanese flower arrangement. Ikebana is interesting not only because of the beautiful result it creates, but also because of its philosophy. As the master explained to Bourdain, the empty space between flower stems is as important as the flowers themselves. The lesson learned here is simple: we don’t get beautiful results if we don’t give each element space to breathe.
Getting closer to the end of the episode, we get a glimpse of various places where the little details shine. For starters, there’s yakitori place Toriki Honten, where the chicken is so clean you can eat it raw. We mean this literally, as there is no risk from salmonella in Japan, so the place serves the bird half-cooked. Right after this, we learned about Inotada Knife production, a place that provides some chefs with the finest knives in the market. There, they follow a casting steel tradition that goes back to samurai swords. Then, we briefly returned to Kyoto to visit Hiiragiya Ryokan, where Bourdain once again eats Kaiseki with Geishas.
Finally, after all these experiences, Bourdain goes to Bar Piano Shibuya, where he reflects on what he learned. This is where subtext finally becomes text, as Bourdain is told by a friend what the Japanese culture is all about: “It’s about detail. Whether it is about providing high quality food, high quality services, technology, whatever. Everything goes into detail. And that’s what defines what our culture is, and who we are.”
Hokkaido
The episode in Hokkaido is among the most interesting ones, for both what’s shown and what isn’t. In terms of what’s shown, we get to see Bourdain fall in love with another face of Japan; in terms of what’s not shown, the episode was filmed a few weeks before the 2011 Tohoku earthquake and tsunami. This was the strongest earthquake in Japan’s recorded history, which ultimately gives the episode a somber aftertaste. However, it’s worth noting that all the places Bourdain visited are still operating today. This shows how the Hokkaido spirit stayed strong in the face of such tragedy.
One way we can reassure this feeling of perseverance is with a celebration Bourdain was there to witness, the Sapporo Snow Festival. Celebrated in the enormous Odori Park, the festival is considered among the most important winter activities in Japan. One only needs to see Bourdain reactions to the ice sculptures to understand their importance. The tradition has remained strong for over seventy years, and even in the face of Covid-19 it persisted as an online event.
As for specific places, there is Aji no Karyu, a ramen establishment Bourdain visited located in the Ramen Alley. Also known as Ganso Sapporo Ramen Yokocho, the alley is famous as the birthplace of Miso Ramen. Needless to say, Bourdain wanted to try it. While enjoying the meal, Bourdain comments on one of Hokkaido’s ramen uniqueness: the corn. He then mentions the 2008 film Ramen Girl, and how in that film they also put corn on ramen. At first, he didn’t get it, but after trying it, he finally understood why she did it: it was delicious.
After Ramen Alley, a friend of Bourdain’s guides him through Sapporo to try their take on seafood. This leads to Wakakoma Restaurant, a place whose atmosphere gives Bourdain a unique impression. Here, the fascinating Japanese presentation that once captivated him is flipped, creating a similar spell. People in Hokkaido don’t care much about etiquette, thus being open to new ideas and experimenting. In honor of this, we see how even in a seafood place you can find surprises. Case in point, the Hokkaido-style cheese they used as an appetizer, which even surprised Bourdain’s tour guide.
After this, Anthony Bourdain felt like he needed to try another city in the Hokkaido prefecture, so he went to Niseko. Niseko is a mountainous place, full of skiing activities and other snow sports. In Bourdain’s words: “Me? I’m here for the food. Well, maybe a little skiing too.” As usual, this is followed by him and some strangers eating and bonding, the same stranger who later will accompany him down the mountain. As for specific, the restaurant in question was the Izakaya establishment Akitori Torimatsu; and the mountain was Mt. Niseko. After the exercise was done, Bourdain and his newfound friends enjoyed some good Soba at Rakuichi Soba.
After this, we see Bourdain relieving an experience that he is intimately familiar with: staying at a Ryokan. This time, it was Takinoya Ryokan, located in Noboribetsu. As it seems to be a theme with this episode, Hokkaido adds its own twist to the Ryokan experience. This time, instead of Kaiseki, Bourdain tries a Robatayaki style meal, which is a style of cooking over charcoal.
Finally, as the episode is reaching its conclusion, Bourdain’s travels to the Town of Shiraoi. This town is special to the residents of Hokkaido, as some of their indigenous practices have prevailed. It’s inhabited by the Ainu people, and Bourdain wanted to show his solidarity as lover of the land. There, enjoying some Chep-ohau (Ainu soup), and salted salmon, he realizes the complexity of a country like Japan. Even in places like that, as far as the western idea of Japan as it gets, the culture is rich and worth exploring.
Cook it Raw TV Special
The last episode of No Reservation where Japan is front and center is the Cook it Raw special. As explained by world-famous chef René Redzepi, Cook it Raw is a culinary endeavor that aims to revolutionize gastronomy. It’s, at its core, a return to the essentials, with chefs championing gastronomy’s roots. As you might’ve guessed, Japan was the perfect location for such an experiment, as is a place rich in flavors.
First, Bourdain introduces us once again to the country he has become familiar with. This is done with the help of Ivan Orkin, a New Yorker who used to run a ramen place in Tokyo. With his help, he gets the first taste of Cook it Raw before it starts, by going to an Unagi place. Unagi is simply translated as eel, and in the now-closed Hosaka Ya he ate every part of it. From guts to liver, the place offered an array of flavors that he had not experienced before. Even in the “Viagra of the Sea”, who captivated him so many years ago, he still finds surprises.
After this, he meets up with the previously mentioned René Redzepi to discuss the plan for Cook it Raw. This meeting takes place in a restaurant called Hachi, where the duo tried some lesser known dishes, like codfish sperm with spinach and moonfish sashimi.
After leaving chef Redzepi, Bourdain meets up with Dave Chang, another chef who’s participating in the experience. This meeting might feel somewhat inconsequential to some viewers, as all they do is go to a convenience store. However, if you know anything about Bourdain, you’ll know this meeting was special, as it was the first time he tried the egg salad sandwiches from Lawson. From this point forward, Lawson becomes a recurrent character in his travels to Japan, making the interaction priceless.
As the episode progresses, Bourdain leaves Tokyo in favor of Ishikawa, where the Cook it Raw experience takes place. Once here, the race for the best ingredients starts, with the chefs going hunting for them. The ocean is an obvious place to start, as Ishikawa has some fascinating sea creatures, like King Crab and Squids; however, some chefs opt for some birds, trying an old duck-hunting method the residents taught them. At the end, when Bourdain and some friends tried what the chefs did with the food Ishikawa provided, they were speechless. At first, they were scared, but in Bourdain’s words: “feeling scared is always exciting.” And, with Ishikawa ingredients and creative minds to transform them, the results are bound to be exciting.
Parts Unknown
Parts Unknown was Anthony Bourdain’s last TV show before his tragic passing in 2018. By now, one could argue that Bourdain was not only a traveler, but an expert in the places he visited. He, essentially, was everyone’s favorite tour guide, always anticipating your questions and delivering a satisfying answer. He knew what you wanted to hear, and often, he knew what you didn’t know you desperately wanted too.
In terms of his relationship with Japan, Bourdain had become knowledgeable enough for some stereotypes to get under his skin. He loved Japan to the point he wanted to clarify what was beautiful about the place and inspired others to see his vision. Like a passionate lover who exalts its partner, Bourdain wanted to show that even Japan’s most misunderstood characteristics were, in a way, something to behold.
Tokyo
This is the episode we’ve quoted in the beginning of this article, where he stated that Japan changed his life. What we didn’t tell you is Bourdain was still there to discover more of a place he already loved. While drinking a beer in the famous New York Grill at the Park Hyatt Hotel, in a scene reminiscent of Lost in Translation, Bourdain declares his goal for this episode: the Tokyo nights.
Bourdain’s first stop was at the Kabukicho District. There, guided by Japanese film producer Masa Kobuko, they entered a Robot Restaurant. His first impression was that it was kind of weird that there were chains separating the entertainers from the entertained. Bourdain’s final impression was that this was the single best entertainment experience he ever had. He then goes into detail: better than Hendrix? Yes. Better than Bowie? Yes. And so on and so forth. Bourdain also admitted he didn’t fully understand the show, “What’s going on?”; but then again, this didn’t matter to him. The experience of robot maids, pole dancers and loud music, even as confusing as it was, left him transfixed. Then, he is told by Masa that the budget most likely came from the Yakuza, who “supervised” things there.
After this experience, Bourdain aims for something more intimate, which makes him inquire about the Hostess Cafes in Japan. As Masa explained, whether you’re male or female, this establishment provides a risk-free interaction with the opposite sex. The experience itself mostly appeals to the working class after a long day of work. Bourdain confesses to not understanding it, but Masa speaks of the fear of rejection, which is a place most of us can empathize with.
Aftwards, their desire for intimate connection leads them directly to Golden Gai. In the famous street where bars touch each other’s shoulders, Bourdain and Masa end up in Bar Albatross. Bourdain was told that, just like in America, bartenders in Japan are like priests: you take their advice, no matter the topic. They then laugh, drink, and Bourdain comments that Tokyo, Japan, is many chefs’ ideal place to die. Masa, surprised, asks why, and Bourdain answers “Because the food is awesome”, thus transitioning to the next section.
This is where we are introduced to one of the main characters of the episode, sushi master Naomichi Yasuda. He, as Bourdain explained, used to run the most expensive sushi restaurant in the USA, but decided to abandon it to open Sushi Yasuda in Tokyo. Additionally, Yasuda is a fighter at heart, which is the reason why he prepares sushi with an immaculate posture. Currently, Sushi Yasuda is permanently closed, as Naomichi has retired. However, the lessons he taught persist, like his freezing fish technique to maximize flavor, or the lessons from his fighting days: speed, timing, distance. A good sushi master, Bourdain’s notes, applies these principles while serving and preparing.
Right after this, Bourdain brings us back to the nightlife of Tokyo, or, more specifically, what lurks in the shadows. He goes to Taito Ward for some street food along with Tomika, a professional dominatrix, and her boyfriend, who does the same with women. With help from a translator, Bourdain asked: “How big is the sadomasochistic community?” and “does it hurt? Or does it feel good?” Tomika’s answer surprised Bourdain, as the community is large, and there is indeed pain, but it quickly turns into ecstasy. This will remain with Bourdain until the end of the episode, as he gathers his thoughts for the conclusion.
Continuing with the fetishism theme, Bourdain interviews mangaka Toshio Maeda, the creator of tentacle porn. At first, this seems like a sort of morbid curiosity, but the conversation with Maeda ends up being culturally enriching. While the pair eats at Mienoumi Restaurant, we get to learn about Japan’s censorship laws. Any representation of genitalia was extremely prohibited on pornography, so Maeda’s style happened to fill a niche at the time. This prompts the question, if our country had such a history, would it have looked that different?
The comparison between the western and eastern worlds doesn’t end there, as Bourdain later dives into the music industry. Bourdain doesn’t believe that the manufactured pop stars of Japan are that different from the ones in the USA. However, he does champion good and bold musicians, which is why he decides to interview a metal band. The band in question is Mergin Moon, which makes exhilarating music, slowly challenging the “politeness” of Japanese metal fans. There is something to reflect on here, and that is that Japan is evolving with the changing times.
We then returned to Naomichi Yasuda’s side, with him showing Bourdain a place he is fond of: Mahakala Bar. The place isn’t what you’ll expect from a world-renowned chef to recommend, as it’s essentially a small neighborhood bar. However, it should be clear by now that the small experiences are often the best.
Finally, as the episode ends, Bourdain returns to the New York Grill and reflects on what he’s seen so far. He talks about Tokyo’s nightlife, the fetishes, the food and the music, and slowly leads us to his conclusion. Japan is not as crazy as some westerners think it is; in fact, the two worlds are very similar. Desires, fears, working around what we have, these are all human characteristics, and the differences in them should be celebrated. If we mock things that are different without understanding them, who’s the crazy one?
Okinawa
The episode on Okinawa follows a similar template to that of the Osaka and Hokkaido episodes. That is, explore a different side to Japanese culture most people aren’t aware of. In this case, Bourdain introduces Okinawa’s way of life via one of his main dishes: Chanpuru. Though in common usage it refers to a stir-fry dish, Chanpuru’s real meaning is “something mixed.” Bourdain uses this to tell Okinawa’s story, as it’s effectively a mixture of Japanese, Chinese, and even some American culture.
Firstly, we’re shown how the culture of Okinawa is completely different from that of a city like Tokyo. In the entertainment department, for example, we’re shown a Togyu match, that is, Bull Sumo. Bourdain went to the Ishikawa Dome to witness this, as he found it a fitting introduction to Okinawa farmer roots. As we’re told, it started as early as the seventeenth century, when farmers in the then Ryukyu Kingdom needed a distraction. Okinawa’s farmer history is an ingenious way to start, for reasons that will become apparent soon.
But, before we reached that point, Bourdain took a detour to eat at Urizun Restaurant. This place does Okinawan food the Okinawan way, being somewhat a mixture of Chinese and Japanese cuisine. Pork is king in Okinawa, with parts like the ears and the belly being among the favorites. Tofu, however, is also a delicacy of the place, as the famous Okinawan Tofuyo serves a great appetizer.
After showing us the influence of the Chinese and Japanese, Bourdain talks about the American side of things. Okinawa, for those who don’t know, was the battleground for one of the biggest battles in World War II. After imperial Japan lost, many US military bases were established on Okinawa, something that has influenced the culture ever since. Bourdain discusses this topic with ex-governor, Masahide Ota, in the private house turned restaurant, Gettouan. While eating the traditional dish of Tundaabun, Ota explains how Okinawa has always fought to maintain their identity in the face of a bigger culture suppressing it. Sometimes, and this is fascinating, Okinawa creates culture precisely in opposition to another.
This serves as a perfect segway to what’s no doubt Okinawa’s biggest cultural export: Karate. As Bourdain is told by Karate master Tetsuhiro Hokama, the martial art was born out of a ban on weapons the Japanese enforced back in the Seventeenth century. Karate essentially became a way for Okinawans to defend themselves in the face of oppression. This is tied with the previously mentioned farmer history, as the ban also led to the art of Kobudo. Kobudo is basically a martial art that specializes in making everyday farming objects into deadly weapons. This, needless to say, is awesome, and has served as inspiration to some great shows, like the classic Rurouni Kenshin.
Soon after, Bourdain attends a rally where the Okinawan elderly are protesting the existence of US military bases. The reason? Not enough farmable land. Once again, we get to see the farming history of Okinawa influence the current situation. This, as Bourdain shows, is a contentious topic among residents, as younger people don’t really mind the bases.
Many things could be said about this disparity, but Bourdain decided to show why some people accepted the bases. The simple answer is culture mixing, which he exemplifies in food. On this occasion, he travels to the Town of Kin, a place right next to a military base. Kin is the birthplace of Taco Rice, a dish that reinvents the ingredients of tacos in a unique way. While eating it at King Taco Restaurant, Bourdain asks a young lady what her generation thinks of the military bases. She then states that: “as long as we don’t live near the base, it doesn’t affect us” and that “they’re very loud.”
After showing us all this culture mixing, Bourdain wanted to find something in Okinawa that was unaltered. Fortunately for him, the island of Kumejima exists. Described as a place of the Ryukyu Kingdom that is still alive, the place is like going back in time. It’s the farming and fishing culture at the root of it all. While there, Bourdain eats a barbecue with the locals and practices Okinawan Sumo with them. The sport is about making your opponent’s back touch the ground, while you both are tied up to each other. To his own surprise, Bourdain won a match.
After a quick stop at Lawson for an egg salad sandwich, the trip concludes in the now closed Dojo Bar. Here he is accompanied by Karate masters from earlier, who invited him over for some Habushu (Okinawa Snake Sake). As he drinks it, he struggles to find words to describe Okinawa. Faced with this difficult task, he looks around the bar for a fitting conclusion. At the end, he chose a female Karate student to deliver the final words. As she is explaining how karate can be used to defend others, she turns to Bourdain and says: “That’s [what] Okinawa is about. Okinawa people always have this love for everybody.”
The Masa Takayama Special
The Masa Takayama special episode was the last time Japan appeared on Parts Unknown, and it’s a fitting conclusion. Focused on chef Masa Takayama, the episode serves as an introduction to his story, from Ishikawa to New York City. Additionally, the episode is a great showcase of Anthony Bourdain’s evolving relationships with Japan. This time, he is not here as a traveler, but rather, as a friend of Masa who uses his TV skills to give him the spotlight he rightfully deserves.
The episode begins in the city of Kanazawa in the Ishikawa prefecture, where Masa got his start as a chef. Bourdain states that it is a place with great seafood but, beyond that, is a place for artistic minds to flourish. This is shown through the Nanao fish market, the first place he and Masa visited. There is great quality seafood there, of course,; but the true beauty of the place is sharing a meal with someone who understands its value. The Oysters there, for example, are described as tender and tasty, but it’s how the two chefs play off each other that makes the experience special.
After this, the two go for Kaiseki in the Yamano Restaurant, accompanied by Geiko, a geisha who’s friends with Masa. Right here, they talked about how, as chefs, their desire for independence and creative expression led them to different paths. While on topic, Bourdain comments that Masa might have “second brother syndrome”, something he finds charming. This eventually prompted Masa into talking about Tokyo, the catalyst to the syndrome in question.
Before we arrive in Tokyo, Kanazawa has one last lesson for young Masa we need to hear. This doesn’t come from a chef, but rather, from a pottery craftsman, Haruo Konishi, Masa’s mentor. He taught Masa to design his own plates, something that no doubt added to the presentation of his dishes. But his teachings go beyond the surface level, as he also taught him to draw clean and simple lines, the kind that can guide any creative endeavor. Then, we see his craftsmanship as he prepares a meal for the chefs to enjoy. This section ends with a powerful remark: “We should not forget our beginner spirit.”
After this, we arrived at Tokyo, and the place that enlightened Masa in the ways of sushi: Ginza Sushiko Honten. With more than 130 years of history, the place has a very rigorous learning curve that few apprentices can even begin to attempt. Masa was one of those few, taking him close to seven years to climb in the kitchen’s hierarchy. By this time, he is a veteran of the place, so he is simply enjoying the meal along with Bourdain. The chef on occasion happened to be the son of Masa’s former mentor, making for a delightful conversation.
Once the meal is over, we take one last ride on the bullet train to visit Nasushiobara, Masa’s birthplace. The pair of chefs are welcomed by Masa’s mother and daughter, who invite them for a meal at their house. After a few words on how Masa was a bit of a troublemaker as a kid, they laugh and enjoy the food. We then get to see part of this younger spirit, as Masa visits his old school to practice some Kendo. Then, as one last remembrance of his past life, we’re shown the life of the Takayama that stayed: his brother Kazuo. He, just like Masa, is a chef, though in Bourdain’s company he admitted he always wanted to be a designer. That being said, his restaurant, Tsukimura, was still held by Bourdain as delicious and worth visiting.
Finally, as the Bourdain saga in Japan arrives at its conclusion, we found ourselves in an Onsen one last time. As slow and atmospheric music plays in the background, Masa introduces to Bourdain some of his old highschool friends. While preparing some camping worthy food, the American chef dares to ask: “Back then, did everybody know that you were not gonna stay?” Masa then asks his friends if they ever talked about it, they answer they did, nod, and laugh together. By the end, one thing is clear to Bourdain: maybe there’s some truth in the phrase “you can take the boy out of the country, but can’t take the country out of the boy.”
Final words
To finish this article, it is only appropriate to share one of our favorite Anthony Bourdain quotes: “Be a traveler, not a tourist.” What does this mean? That’s simple: when visiting a place, go with an open mind and the capacity to fall in love with it. Search for new experiences, ideas and flavors. Meet people, talk, listen, and be willing to learn from them too. Japan is a place with a lot to teach, but one must have the right mind to listen to the lessons. So, be a traveler, not a tourist. Be like Bourdain. Be opinionated, outspoken, curious and, above all, respectful, as that’s the key to loving a place the way he did.
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