Anthony Bourdain was many things, a chef, a writer, an outspoken culture critique and, unsurprisingly, a lover of Japan. He once said of the country that “every chef I know wants to die in this place”; when asked why, he gave the most simple and effective answer: “because the food is awesome”. Anthony Bourdain’s Japan is the real Japan, setting to both a sci-fi movie and a historic piece, all first experienced by the tongue and the stomach.
Today, we’ll show you how to traverse Japan the way Bourdain did: one step and one meal at a time. Join us as we dive into some parts unknown (and some well-known) of a place Anthony Bourdain loved, and we’re sure you’ll do too.
Tokyo
Tokyo is by far the city in Japan that Anthony Bourdain visited the most, and for good reason. As he explored on his various TV shows, the neon metropolis has something for everyone, and the food is a great showcase. Whether you’re looking for a cheap meal, fine dining, or a good drink, Tokyo has you covered. So now, let’s get into some specifics.
Fish in Tokyo
When one thinks of Japanese food, they think of fish, and Anthony Bourdain was no exception. As he himself lets us know, this was his main craving when arriving at Tokyo, so let’s satisfy it.
Like all good fish meals, our journey begins at a market, and Tsukiji Outer Market is our first stop. This is where Bourdain accompanied some of the most decorated chefs in the world to buy their fish. Currently, it is home to many restaurants and small businesses. As of 2018, the market changed location, so if you want a full tuna auction experience, it’s best to visit the Toyosu Market.
Now that we know where our fish comes from, let’s explore some places Anthony Bourdain trusted with them. For a fitting start to this culinary trip, we recommend Sushi Karaku, a place that does sushi the Edomae way, that is, just like in the Edo Period. Continuing with Edomae, Ginza Sushiko Honten is a must, as it’s where world-renowned chef Masa Takayama learned everything he knows. For a more contemporary approach, we would recommend Sushi Bar Yasuda, but it sadly closed its doors permanently in 2020. Nevertheless, the technique pioneered by its chef, Naomichi Yasuda, where you freeze the fish to maximize its flavor, is still used on some high-end establishments.
Sushi, however, wasn’t the only fish meal Anthony had in Tokyo, as there exist many ways to eat it in the city. If you want to follow his footsteps, first get to know the locals at Taito Ward while eating Kusaya (fermented fish). Then, go to Restaurant XEX Morimoto, where the world-famous chef Masaharu Morimoto may serve you some deep-fried Monkfish. Finally, if, like Bourdain, you want to bite the forbidden fruit, dare to try Fugu (puffer fish) in a specialized restaurant.
Street Food Tokyo
With street food, Bourdain often wanted to show that the western and eastern worlds weren’t too different. After a long day, it’s common for everyone, regardless of background, to want to relax along with some friends. Eat. Drink. Have a good time. Tokyo residents, just like us, know when it’s time to enjoy the little moments and take a break. For that reason, the city has some places specially designed to do just that.
One of the first ever places Anthony Bourdain visited in Japan is called Toriki Main, where they served Yakitori. Simply translated as “skewered bird”, yakitori is a form of skewered grilled chicken that serves a great appetizer or main course. Toriki Main, located in Shinagawa, is peculiar for its use of an electric grill, as they argue it adds flavor. The dish may be unappealing for some, as chefs often preferred the bird half raw. It’s completely safe to eat, as there is no risk of salmonella in Japan due to its food conservation laws, and once you do, you won’t regret it.
Bourdain also had some great street food, though in a quieter setting, in Mahakala Bar, located in the Nakameguro Neighborhood. Here, accompanied by the previously mentioned chef Naomichi Yasuda, he ordered some Kushiage and Okonomiyaki. The first one refers to a deep-fried Japanese skewer, and the second to an egg batter pancake that can be filled with many things. In both cases, words won’t do them justice, as they are best experienced with the sense of taste.
Tokyo Noodles and Ramen
A common mistake people make while approaching Japanese food, and one that chefs point out with Bourdain, is to believe that the protein is the most important part. Remember this going forward: the base is always the main ingredient. All sushi masters agree that rice is more important than fish, but perhaps noodle masters are the most outspoken. When thinking of Soba Noodles, for instance, we tend to think of broth, however, the real stars are the noodles themselves.
A place where Anthony Bourdain got to experience first-hand the taste of well-made Soba Noodles was Honmura-an Ogikubo. Back in the day, it was in the Roppongi District, but currently you can find it in the Suginami District. A restaurant that hasn’t changed a bit from Bourdain’s days is Sarashina Horii, located in the greater Minato Area. In both these places, Bourdain was astounded to see the master prepare the noodles with his bare hands. As noted by the American chef, the technique of slicing alone would take years to master. As is usual in these establishments, soba noodles are often served cold with the broth on the side. You can, if you prefer, ask for everything to be put together, but to understand why the noodles themselves pack a flavor, it’s best to try it this way at least once.
Ramen, on the other hand, is looked upon quite differently than soba noodles. As a friend of Bourdain and ramen expert, Ivan Orkin, put it: “Ramen is the only Japanese cuisine where there is no notebook”. We would recommend you visit Ivan’s restaurant, but it sadly was moved from Tokyo to New York in late 2015. We can, however, recommend Ivan’s favorite ramen place, Ramen Nagi, which can be found in the District of Shinjuku.
Food with energy (in more than one way)
In what’s perhaps the most bizarre Anthony Bourdain experience in Tokyo, he met Toshio Maeda, the creator of tentacle porn. They had interesting and insightful conversations about the genre and its origins, held in the Mienoumi Restaurant. Located in the Koto District, the restaurant is an interesting place to discuss such a vigor related topic, considering it is named after sumo wrestler Mienoumi Tsuyoshi. As you’ll imagine, the place menu is filled with items that sumo wrestlers fancy for its energy and volume. In the case of Bourdain, he ate Katsuo No Tataki and Tomato Nabe, with the latter being some sumo enthusiast’s favorite.
This, however, wasn’t the first time Bourdain got in contact with sumo culture, as he also ate in Chanko Edosawa Restaurant. Chanko is the name given to food sumo wrestlers eat to gain weight, or, in Bourdain’s words, Japanese bulking food. Bourdain himself acknowledged this was a simplification, as Chanko is more about balance than simply gaining calories. There’s fat, yes, but the secret is quality food in gigantic quantities. The food itself can be quite varied, as it’s basically a hot pot full of ingredients you can choose.
Continuing with food Toshio Maeda would also enjoy; we can talk about the time Bourdain had Unagi. In the now closed restaurant Hosaka-Ya, he and Ivan Orkin got to try every single part of an eel (unagi). In the restaurant, they killed the eel, got every single edible organ out, grilled them, and skewered them before serving. According to Bourdain in a previous episode, eels have aphrodisiac properties, which is why he called them “the Viagra of the sea”.
A Drink in Tokyo
Before leaving Tokyo, let’s finish our trip in the city the way many of Bourdain’s episodes did: with a good drink.
If you’re looking for the most resident-like place to drink in Tokyo, Bar Albatross in Golden Gai is the place for you. Located in Shinjuku, Golden Gai itself is already famous for its bars, as the closeness of each establishment gives it a labyrinth-like charm. In Bar Albatros, Bourdain found the atmosphere to be quite friendly, as even the bartender was joking around. Considering he didn’t speak Japanese, the fact he was so welcomed is telling of the experiences that await there.
For those who prefer a high-end establishment, Bourdain would personally recommend Ishinohana Bar. Located in Shibuya, Ishinohana is considered the most famous mixology bar in Japan, with an excellent track record to back them up. If you want to drink the cocktail Bourdain had, order the Polar Star Cocktail, it will take some time to prepare, but it’s worth the wait. Another place of similar caliber where Bourdain drank was The New York Grill, located at the Park Hyatt Hotel, made famous by the film Lost in Translation.
Our final recommendation was used at the end of an episode of No Reservations, as we and Bourdain found it an excellent closer: Bar Piano Shibuya. With a decoration that blends the neon aesthetic of Tokyo with medieval armors and chandeliers, the place is simply beautiful. With this unique atmosphere and a good drink, it’s easy to understand why Bourdain was compelled to monologue about Japan. In his own words, Japan could be encapsulated in the following phrase: “simplicity devoid of unnecessary elements, only the good stuff”.
Osaka
Osaka is one of the few Japanese cities that Anthony Bourdain dedicated an entire episode to, something he did to experience a side of the country of which he hadn’t heard of. As opposed to Tokyo citizens, the people of Osaka are often seen as more direct and laid-back. This is an aspect Bourdain aimed to explore in the episode, starting with the food and building up from there.
Food holds a special place in Osakan’s hearts, as most of their activities are accompanied by something to eat. The meal in question is always rich in flavor and is often served burning hot.
Kuidaore and Manzai
As Bourdain tells us , there are two concepts one must know when visiting Osaka: Kuidaore and Manzai. The first one can be described as “to bankrupt oneself with food”, essentially, to eat like there’s no tomorrow. The second is a style of comedy native to the region, where two comedians, a smart and dumb one, engage in dialogue. Anthony Bourdain took a Kuidaore tour around the city with two Manzai comedians. The combination of comedy and fantastic food is delightful to watch, not to mention ideal to follow.
The first thing they ate was Takoyaki, in the now closed Pizza House Restaurant. What was special about the place, and something you can look for while in Osaka, is the method. Osaka’s take on the famous octopus and batter balls is quite unique, as some restaurants allow you to do it yourself.
The second place they visited was one of immense pride to the people of Osaka, the Jiyuken Restaurant. Located in the Namba District, the Jiyuken restaurant is famous for being a place Oda Sakunosuke used to write in. Oda is part of the Buraiha, a group of writers that gained notoriety after World War II. In honor of him, Bourdain ordered the place’s signature curry rice, one of the writers’ favorite dishes.
Right after that, the trio went to Kushikatsu Daruma, where they enjoyed some deep-fried food along with some beer. Continuing with the essence of Kuidaore, they ate some crab legs at the colorful Kani Doraku Restaurant .
Finally, just when he was reaching his limit, Bourdain got to meet the world-famous Kuidaore Taro (Clown). As the clown reminded him of the true essence of eating in Osaka, they went for a last meal at Fukutaro Restaurant. Here, he ordered the previously mentioned Okonomiyaki.
Meet the Hanshin Tigers (and its fans)
The people of Osaka are proud of many things, and one of them is their baseball team, The Hanshin Tigers. Though the team is currently located in Nishinomiya, its history goes back to Osaka, and the people have not forgotten. Bourdain introduces us to Osaka through the tigers, as the spirits of the fans can encapsulate the city’s charm. Direct, outspoken, loud and respectful, you can learn a lot about a city based on how they root for a team.
Like all good fans, the Hanshin Tigers fans gather in a sports bar whenever their team is playing, and Bourdain chose to experience this in Gosakudon Tennoji Koenmae. The place is what you will expect from a sports bar, with the notable standout they serve sushi. The day Bourdain visited, the Tigers played The Tokyo Giants, their sworn rival; that day, the Osaka team was crowned victorious, and for that reason, the beer had a discount.
If you plan your trip accordingly, like Bourdain did, you may be able to attend a Tiger’s baseball game. Here, you can enjoy the great atmosphere the Tiger’s fans bring to the table, along with staple stadium food. There are, of course, hot dogs and beer, but you could also get ramen or even edamame.
Honke Hormone Dojo
We left the odd one out for last, as Honke Hormone Dojo is a one-of-a-kind restaurant Bourdain visited in Osaka. The menu is composed of discarded meats, like pigs’ livers, cow stomach and many more. The place is, in short, perfect for those looking for uncharted flavors with great presentation.
Okinawa
Anthony Bourdain also dedicated an entire episode of television to Okinawa, though the reasons are quite different. In Osaka, he was looking for an unheard-of Japanese experience, but in Okinawa he wasn’t searching for Japan at all. Once part of the Ryukyu Kingdom, Okinawa has a rich history that shares as much with Japan as it does with China. Most people don’t know it was annexed to Japan in 1879, and for decades afterwards Okinawans consider themselves different.
With its tropical climate and its people’s relaxed attitudes, Okinawa is not what’s expected of Japan. Everything from their food to their cultural export’s screams of a culture with a lot to say for itself. So now, let’s take a bite.
Okinawan food the Okinawan way
In Anthony Bourdain’s words: “what you need to know, what you must know, is that in Okinawa pork is king.” This line is not only insightful, but also quite funny, as it is immediately followed by him eating tofu. In either case, Bourdain’s first stop to properly eat was Restaurant Urizun, where they served Okinawan food the Okinawan way.
Whether it is pork brined in sake or the traditional Okinawan Tofuyo (tofu), Urizun should be your first stop in Okinawa, as the food is a glimpse of what’s to come.
Tundaabun
In a very exclusive experience, Bourdain ate with the former governor of Okinawa: Masahide Ota. Where did this experience take place? It was in the beautiful private house turned restaurant, Gettouan. For such a special occasion, the restaurant served an Okinawa specialty that goes back to the Ryukyu Kingdom, Tundaabun. In simple words, Tundaabun is a multiple bite size portions dish, with foods of vastly different kinds. It could be swordfish marinated in sake or burdock root wrapped in pork loin, you never know what you’re going to get, and that’s what’s special about it. Like many Japanese foods with such a long history, the presentation itself is enough to capture one’s appetite.
Even though it is not Tundaabun, Bourdain had a similar bite size experience in the Makishi Public Market. Located in the city of Naha, the largest in the Okinawa prefecture, the market is great for fish enjoyers. There, you can buy fresh fish, and for a small fee, a restaurant will cook it for you. You can enjoy some of the highest quality deep-fried fish there is, or eat it sashimi style.
Proud of its tradition
Okinawa’s most important cultural export is the well-known martial art discipline of Karate. Anthony Bourdain spent much of his time in Okinawa with Karate masters and discovered that even they have ways to relax. Case in point, Dojo Bar, where he and some karate professionals got along with a drink of Habushu. Habushu is basically Okinawa Snake Sake, which is made with Awamori (another traditional liquor) and habu snake. The bar has sadly closed its doors permanently, but they’re plenty of places where you can find these drinks.
Okinawa is also proud of its cultural heritage as part of the Ryukyu Kingdom, and the Kumejima island is living proof. As a place far away from the main island, Kumejima is half of Ryukyu that remains alive today. There’s not much to do on the island, as it’s mainly focused on fishing and sugar cane cultivation. However, you can have some great food on the island, as the catch of the day can be turned into a great BBQ. In the case of Bourdain, he had sea snails, seaweeds and some fresh tuna.
Proud of (some) new things as well
Anthony Bourdain didn’t know much about Okinawa, but he did know about its role in WWII. As a major battleground between the Japanese and the American armies, Okinawa has been in many ways affected by that history.
Much is debated about it, like the presence of US military bases in the land. Other things, however, are widely celebrated, like the famous Okinawan Taco Rice. As locals explain to Bourdain, Taco Rice was a direct consequence of culture sharing, as the ingredients of tacos were interpreted in a Japanese way. The place Anthony Bourdain visited is called King Tacos, the birthplace of the dish. Though there are many different King Taco establishments, the one in the Town of Kin is the original one, as it is located next to a military base.
Hokkaido
Even though Bourdain visited it before Okinawa, we consider Hokkaido a fitting conclusion to the Japanese regions that had an episode dedicated to them. The reason is simple, part of Hokkaido’s charm is how it has balanced its indigenous heritage with its Japanese identity. Just like Okinawa, the prefecture was annexed quite late to Japan; but much like Osaka, its proximity to the main island has influenced the culture over the years.
Hokkaido has accepted their newfound Japanese identity, while simultaneously preserving their Ainu (their indigenous people) spirit. As usual, Anthony Bourdain invites us to experience this with some food.
The City of Sapporo
The capital of Hokkaido is the beautiful city of Sapporo, where the Japanese influence over the region can be felt. The place has every food you would expect from a Japanese city, but with a Hokkaido spin on it.
One of the places where this is most evident is in Ramen Alley, the first place Bourdain ate in Sapporo. Its official name is Ganso Sapporo Ramen Yokocho, and it’s a street with several ramen restaurants, with Bourdain choosing to eat in a shop called Aji no Karyu. The zone is quite famous in Japan, as is the birthplace of Miso Ramen. The ramen Bourdain had was basically the Hokkaido take on the famous dish, which, in addition to the usual ingredients, included the signature Miso (japanese soybean paste) and some corn.
Another interesting Sapporo take on a Japanese classic is their approach to seafood, which Bourdain experienced in Wakaoma Restaurant. There is, of course, quality sushi, but there is also the Wakkanai crab, something other regions can’t offer. Besides this, Bourdain also ate Nama Chirashi Don and Ikura Don, two dishes that taste familiar but feel different. The first one is, in short, a bowl full of seafood, for you to experience a different flavor with each bite. Ikura Don, on the other hand, refers to a Japanese rice bowl with salmon roe. In any case, the dishes will look undoubtedly Japanese, but with a presentation and flavor that is unique to Hokkaido.
Another thing Bourdain ate in Wakaoma was Hokkaido-style-cheese. We think this deserves its own paragraph, as Sapporo is quite famous for its take on Raclette and their famous Cheese Tarts. We personally recommend the Kinotoya Bake Pole Town Store, where some of the best tarts in Sapporo are made.
The Mountains of Niseko
If there is one thing Hokkaido is world-famous for is its mountains. The notable standout is Asahi-Dake, a volcano and the tallest mountain on the island, but Bourdain had another one in mind. Going as far away thematically from a volcano as he could, he visited Mt. Niseko-Annupuri, a place for skiing. Located in the city of Niseko, the place is famous for its snow sports, as the mountain is beginner-friendly.
While there, Anthony Bourdain visited the Yakitori Torimatsu, where they serve the food Izakaya style. Izakaya refers to an informal Japanese bar that serves snacks and beer, but, as Bourdain said, this one is run by an Izakaya master. As the name suggests, the place serves Yakitori, but in traditional Hokkaido fashion, is their own take on the dish. Instead of the previously mentioned skewered chicken, the place features other proteins, like pork belly, liver, tongue and even fish sperm sacs.
Right after Bourdain and some new found friends got to experience the slopes, they went to a soba place to relax. The place in question is Rakuichi Soba and is quite similar to the soba establishments we have mentioned before. They serve the noodles just like Anthony likes them, cold with the broth on the side.
The Ainu People
As stated before, the Ainu are the indigenous people of Hokkaido, and Bourdain got to meet some of them in the Town of Shiraoi. As he informs us, the Ainu are marginalized and discriminated against, but that doesn’t happen in the town, where many people embrace their indigenous heritage.
We sadly can’t recommend a restaurant here, as it was the Ainu Elders who prepared Anthony Bourdain’s food. Nevertheless, the food in question was Chep-ohau (Ainu soup), and salted salmon, both of which can be easily found in Shiraoi.
Ishikawa
Even though it never got its own episode, the Ishikawa prefecture was featured multiple times in Bourdain’s shows. The city of Kanazawa is a notable standout, as it is by far the place he visited the most while in Ishikawa.
Across various episodes and different shows, Anthony Bourdain ate in Kanazawa in three different locations. The first restaurant was Housyouzuchi, a place whose specialty is seafood, which he enjoyed along with chefs from Cook It Raw. The second place is the Omicho Market, featured in the Masa Takayama special. As for what they ate, they had sea urchin, snow crab, unagi and oysters, with the last one catching Bourdain’s attention for gigantic size. The final place was Yamano Restaurant, where they served the traditional meal of Kaiseki. Kaiseki is a multi-course meal which is tied to the season and its flavors, that is, it varies quite often.
The only place where Anthony Bourdain ate outside of Kanazawa (that wasn’t someone’s home) was the Nanao fish Market. Also featured in the Cook It raw episode, the place offered Bourdain and the other chefs a sailor’s breakfast. The breakfast itself was mainly focused on the latest catch, which was at the time squid.
Atami and Nasushiobara
Both Atami and Nasusiobara were cities featured very briefly on some of Anthony Bourdain’s episodes, but they’re still worth mentioning. As opposed to the other places mentioned in this guide, these cities are relatively close to Tokyo. For that reason, they’re a worthwhile last-minute stop right before leaving Japan.
In Atami, Anthony Bourdain stayed in the Sekiyo Ryokan (Inn) and had dinner with geishas. This was the first time Bourdain had the previously mentioned Kaiseki, which geishas helped him to understand. This is our personal recommendation if you want to try Kaiseki, as the geishas will inform you of all the proper manners expected with the dish.
As for Nasushiobara, Bourdain visited the Restaurant Tsukimura, where Masa Takayama’s brother, Kazuo, makes sushi. Masa actually was born in Nasusiobara, and is where his family still resides. Even though Kazuo is not as well known as his brother, he is a talented chef capable of surprising Anthony Bourdain with his abilities.
Lawson Convenience Store
It may appear odd to finish our culinary trip through Japan with a convenience store, but Anthony Bourdain wouldn’t have it any other way. Lawson Convenience Stores can be found all over the country, and if you’re looking for a cheap meal, you’ll be surprised by its price and quality.
As a convenience store, the place has many options, but Anthony Bourdain’s favorite item was always the Egg Salad sandwich. A trip to Japan the Anthony Bourdain way would be incomplete without one of those, so, take his advice, and try some before leaving.
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